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Whenever curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. However, tucked high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” states a family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their modest place achieving such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.